Once your tomato plants are settled in the garden, the real work begins. To transform these young shoots into productive plants, regular attention is required. Fortunately, by mastering five fundamental pillars—watering, mulching, fertilizing, staking, and pruning—you'll give yourself the best chance to enjoy juicy tomatoes all summer long.
1. Watering: The Art of Consistent Hydration
Tomato plants require plenty of water and regular watering to thrive and bear fruit. It's advisable to water as soon as the top one to two inches of soil are dry to the touch, preferably in the morning.
Irregular irrigation, with periods of drought followed by heavy watering, can not only slow growth but also cause deficiency problems, especially with calcium. This poor calcium absorption is the main cause of "blossom-end rot."
Watering Techniques:
- Always water at the base of the plant, avoiding the foliage. Moisture on the leaves promotes the development of fungal diseases like late blight.
- Water consistently and moderately. The soil should remain moist, but never waterlogged.
- A drip system is ideal, as it delivers water slowly and directly to the roots. Alternatively, slow, deep watering by hand is a great option.
- The frequency depends on soil type, weather, and the presence of mulch. With a good layer of mulch, one to two deep waterings per week should be sufficient, but you'll need to adjust during dry spells.
- Use temperate water if possible, as very cold water can stress the roots.
2. Mulching: Your Best Ally for Healthy Soil
Mulching is a strategic practice for growing tomatoes, as it addresses several of the plant's fundamental needs.
The Benefits of Mulch:
- Moisture Conservation: Mulch significantly reduces evaporation, limiting the need for watering and protecting plants from water stress during dry periods.
- Weed Control: A thick layer prevents weed germination, reducing competition for water and nutrients.
- Disease Prevention: It forms a barrier that prevents soil from splashing onto the lower leaves, significantly reducing the risk of soil-borne diseases like late blight or septoria leaf spot.
- Temperature Regulation: It protects the roots from temperature fluctuations, keeping the soil cooler in summer and retaining heat during cool late-season nights.
How to Apply Mulch:
After weeding thoroughly, spread a 2 to 4-inch layer of organic matter (straw, dead leaves, compost) around the plants, leaving a small gap around the stem to prevent rot. Wait until the young plants are 4 to 8 inches tall before mulching.
3. Fertilizing: Feeding the Hungry Plants
Tomatoes are heavy feeders that quickly deplete soil nutrients. Fertilizing appropriately at each stage of their growth is key to an abundant harvest.
The Feeding Schedule:
At Planting Time
Incorporate rich compost into the soil. A composted manure with peat, seaweed, and crustaceans (like those offered by Botanix) is an excellent choice as it provides a solid foundation. At this stage, phosphorus (P) is crucial for root development, and calcium (Ca) stimulates root and leaf growth.
During Vegetative Growth
Once the plant is well-established, it needs nitrogen (N) to develop healthy, lush foliage. Use a natural, balanced fertilizer for tomatoes and vegetables (for example, a 4-5-7 formula with calcium from Botanix Natur) to support this growth.
From Flowering to Fruiting
The plant's needs change. It's time to reduce nitrogen and prioritize potassium (K), which is essential for the development, taste, and color of the fruit. The need for calcium and magnesium is also at its peak to ensure firm fruit. A tomato and vegetable fertilizer (such as a 6-10-14 formula from Botanix) is ideal.
Frequency: In-Ground vs. Pots
- In-ground: The soil retains nutrients better. Generally, 3 to 5 applications of granular or liquid fertilizer over the summer are sufficient.
- In pots: Nutrients leach out more quickly. More frequent applications are necessary, up to 7 times during the season, for example, with a liquid soluble fertilizer applied every two weeks.
Preventing Blossom-End Rot
This disorder, which appears as a black, dry spot on the bottom of the fruit, is not a disease but the result of poor calcium absorption. To prevent it:
- Maintain consistent soil moisture with regular, deep watering.
- Use mulch to conserve this moisture.
- Apply a balanced fertilizer, avoiding excess nitrogen during fruiting.
- Ensure the soil has available calcium, particularly through compost additions.
4. Staking: Essential Support
Staking is crucial, especially for indeterminate varieties, which can grow up to 6 feet (2 m) tall. It supports the weight of the fruit, prevents contact with the ground (avoiding diseases and slugs), and facilitates general maintenance. Determinate plants grow to about 3 feet (1 m) tall, and a tomato cage is usually sufficient to support them.
Best Staking Practices:
- When to install? Ideally, the stake should be put in place before or at the time of planting to avoid damaging the developing root system.
- What material to choose? Wood or bamboo stakes are preferable to metal ones, which can get hot in the sun. For indeterminate varieties, plan for a height of at least 6 feet (2 m). Spiral stakes are practical but can be less sturdy in the wind.
- How to tie? As the plant grows, tie the stem to the stake with soft ties (raffia, twine, specific clips). Never tie too tightly. The "figure-8" technique is perfect: one loop around the stake and another, looser loop around the stem to allow it to grow without being strangled.
Other staking techniques exist: string trellising, trellises, tipis, etc. Do some research and choose the technique that suits you best.
5. Pruning: Channeling Energy for Better Fruit
Pruning is a debated topic, but in short-season climates, it helps to get larger fruits that ripen faster. Small tomato plants (cherry, currant) and determinate varieties do not need to be pruned.
Essential Pruning Techniques:
- Remove "suckers": These are the secondary shoots that appear in the "armpit" between the main stem and a leaf branch. By pinching them off when they are small, you force the plant to concentrate its energy on fruit production. Do this regularly (every 10-15 days) in dry weather for good healing.
- Prune the lower leaves: Remove the lower leaves that touch or are close to the ground. This improves air circulation and limits the transmission of diseases from the soil.
- Top the plants in late season: Around mid-August, cut the top of the main stem above the 4th or 5th flower cluster. This will stop its upward growth and allow the plant to devote all its energy to ripening the already-formed fruits before the cold arrives.
6. Harvest and Fall Care
Ideally, let the fruits ripen on the plant to harvest well-colored and flavorful tomatoes. However, tomato plants are fussy and prefer warm temperatures. When the nights get cooler, you need to pamper them a bit to extend the season.
- Cover for warmth: Tomato plants are fragile and fear the cold. A simple protective cover placed over the plants in the evening can be enough to protect them from light frosts.
- Reduce watering and stop fertilizing: This slight stress signals the plant that it's time to focus its energy on ripening the existing fruits.
- Prune lower leaves: Removing a few leaves, especially those shading the fruit clusters, allows the plant to concentrate its energy on the fruit and improves their sun exposure.
- Keep only promising fruits: Remove new flowers and tiny fruits that won't have time to ripen anyway.
- Pick before the deep cold: When the temperature regularly drops below 50°F (10°C), it's time to pick all the remaining fruits. They will continue to ripen indoors.
- Ripen green tomatoes: To get them to turn red, store them in a paper bag with an apple or a banana. Another method is to pull up the entire plant and hang it upside down in a garage or basement where the temperature is between 60-72°F (15-22°C).
- Clean up the garden: Once the season is over, pull up the plants. If they showed signs of disease, throw them away to avoid contaminating your soil. If you compost healthy plants, make sure the compost temperature is high enough (over 140°F / 60°C) to destroy any potential pathogens.
- Save seeds: If you've grown non-hybrid varieties, this is the perfect time to collect their seeds for next season.
By consistently applying these principles, you won't just be growing tomatoes; you'll be cultivating them with expertise, for a harvest that will reward all your efforts. Happy gardening!
