Long neglected, currants and gooseberries are regaining favour with consumers and top chefs. These small fruits, once cultivated by our ancestors, are making a strong comeback in our gardens. Nurseries now offer productive cultivars that are perfectly adapted to our climates. This guide will accompany you through every step to ensure your growing success.
Currant or Gooseberry?
Some people say currant; others say gooseberry. In Quebec French, the terminology can be specific, but what's the actual difference? It's a bit of both!
- Red Currant (Ribes rubrum)
This shrub produces small red or white fruits that grow in clusters. In Quebec, these fruits are called "gadelles." They have a flavour that is both tart and sweet. The white-fruited varieties are generally milder, sweeter, and have beautiful translucent skin. The plant is upright, compact, and thornless.
- Gooseberry (Ribes uva-crispa)
This bushy and thorny shrub produces flowers ranging from green to pink. Its fruits, which are simply called "groseilles" in Quebec, are larger and do not grow in clusters. They are delicious to eat fresh and can be whitish and translucent, red, yellow, or green.
Choosing the Right Location
These shrubs are easy to grow. Generally, both types of plants appreciate a location in full sun or partial shade (minimum 6 hours of sun). They reach a height of about 1.3 m and a width of 0.9 m.
The red currant bush prefers rich, loose, and well-drained soil to perform well. The gooseberry bush, on the other hand, is more tolerant. It can handle less rich soil, as long as it remains moist.
Planting in the Ground
Planting is done very early in the spring or in the fall (around mid-October).
- Prepare the soil by tilling it to remove weeds.
- Amend the soil with a compost-rich or organic-rich garden soil.
- Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball.
- Trim any dead or damaged roots or branches from the plant.
- Place the plant in the hole, ensuring the crown (the base of the stems) is 3 to 5 cm lower than the soil level. Space plants 1.5 m apart from each other.
- Spread the roots out gently.
- Fill the hole with the amended soil and tamp down firmly.
- Water generously to thoroughly soak the soil.
- For spring planting, cut back the branches to a height of 10 to 15 cm from the ground to encourage branching.
- For fall planting, mulch the base of the plant generously to protect it from frost.
Growing in a Pot
Some cultivars are well-suited for growing in pots, which is ideal for balconies and small yards.
- Choose a pot at least 30 cm deep with good drainage holes. Geotextile fabric pots are an excellent option.
- Plant after the last risk of frost in the spring.
- Prepare a mixture of half potting soil and half compost.
- Place the plant in the pot, fill with the soil mixture, and water thoroughly.
- In the fall, you can either transplant the shrub into the ground or protect the pot for the winter by wrapping it with an insulating blanket and covering it with snow.
Caring for Currant and Gooseberry Bushes: The Essentials
Once well-established, your currant and gooseberry bushes will require some simple but regular care to stay vigorous and productive year after year.
- Watering
Keep the soil cool and moist, but never soggy. Water at the base of the shrub, early in the morning. Avoid wetting the foliage to prevent the risk of diseases like powdery mildew. Potted plants dry out much faster; check them daily in hot weather. - Mulching
In the spring or at planting time, spread a generous layer of mulch 10 to 15 cm deep at the base of your plants. Mulch retains soil moisture, prevents weed growth, regulates root temperature, and enriches the soil as it decomposes. Always leave a clear space of 15 cm around the stems to prevent rot. - Fertilizing
Fertilize your plants each spring with an application of compost or composted manure. Apply it over the entire soil surface under the shrub, then lightly rake it in. The gooseberry bush is less of a heavy feeder, so give it a smaller portion. - Pruning: The Secret to Productivity
Pruning is the most important step to ensure a continuous harvest. Do it in late winter or very early spring, while the plant is dormant. The goal is to encourage the renewal of wood, as fruits appear on 2- and 3-year-old branches.- Clean up: Start by removing all dead, diseased, or broken wood. Also, remove any branches that cross or rub against each other.
- Thin out: Clear the centre of the shrub by cutting a few branches to allow air and light to penetrate well.
- Renew: Each year, identify 2 or 3 of the oldest stems (those older than 3 years, often darker, thicker, and less productive) and cut them right back to the ground. This radical step encourages the plant to produce new, vigorous shoots that will bear fruit in future years.
- Balance: Aim to maintain a total of 8 to 10 well-distributed main stems of varying ages (a few new shoots, a few 2-year-old stems, and a few 3-year-old stems).
- Protection: Safe from Pests
Birds are as fond of your berries as you are! As soon as the fruits start to change colour, cover your shrubs with protective netting. Make sure it is securely fastened to the ground to prevent intruders from sneaking in underneath. Remove the netting immediately after the harvest is over to prevent animals from getting unnecessarily entangled in it.
Troubleshooting: Problems and Solutions
- My plant isn't producing fruit: Patience! A young currant or gooseberry bush needs 2 to 3 years before it produces. Also, make sure it gets enough sun and that you haven't accidentally pruned off all the 2- and 3-year-old wood.
- The leaves are yellowing and falling off: This may indicate a lack of water during a hot spell. If the leaves also have spots, it could be a disease like anthracnose; in that case, remove the affected leaves.
- The fruits are small or few in number: An annual application of compost gives the shrub the energy it needs. Planting a second cultivar nearby, even though many are self-fertile, can also improve pollination.
Did You Know? Companion Planting
Currants and gooseberries grow well with aromatic plants like marjoram or lemon balm, which can help deter some insects. However, avoid planting them near white pines (Pinus strobus), as these bushes can be a host for white pine blister rust, a disease that seriously affects these conifers.
