Dreaming of picking fresh, flavourful blueberries right from your own backyard? Good news: it's entirely possible! The blueberry bush isn't just a source of delicious fruit; it's also an ornamental shrub with its delicate spring blossoms and vibrant autumn colours. This complete guide will walk you through every step, from choosing your plants to preserving your precious harvest.
Understanding Blueberry Types
In North America, two main families of blueberries are cultivated:
- Lowbush Blueberry (or wild blueberry): Very hardy, this native species (Vaccinium angustifolium) forms low bushes (30 to 60 cm / 1 to 2 feet) and produces small fruits with an intense, sweet flavour towards the end of summer.
- Highbush Blueberry: Taller (1 to 1.8 m / 3 to 6 feet), this shrub (Vaccinium corymbosum) offers large, juicy berries starting in mid-July. Its height makes it ideal for U-pick or easy harvesting.
Choosing the Right Cultivars: The Key to Success
The Importance of Cross-Pollination
Even though some blueberry bushes are self-fertile, planting at least two different cultivars of the same family nearby is essential. This cross-pollination will dramatically increase the size and quantity of your fruit. Pollinating insects will take care of transferring the pollen from one variety to another.
Now that you know you need several varieties, how do you choose? To help you select the perfect plants for an abundant harvest, we have prepared a detailed article.
Discover our selection of the best blueberry cultivars here.
Important Note on Hardiness: It is crucial to choose cultivars suited to your hardiness zone. In colder climates (Zones 3-4), varieties rated for Zone 5, like 'Peach Sorbet,' will require a very sheltered location and excellent winter protection. Growing them in a pot that can be moved into a cold garage for the winter is often the best option for these borderline varieties.
Planting Blueberries: Step-by-Step
The ideal time to plant is in the spring, after the last frost. The method differs slightly depending on whether you are planting in the ground or in a pot.
Planting in the Ground
For a successful in-ground planting, soil preparation is the most important step. If your garden soil is not naturally acidic, growing in a pot is a much simpler solution.
- Prepare the soil: the crucial step
Blueberries require very acidic soil (pH between 4.5 and 5.2). Since most garden soils are not naturally this acidic, preparation is essential. The simplest method is to create an "amendment pocket" by replacing the soil in the planting hole with a suitable mixture.- To do this, prepare a mixture of equal parts (50/50) of your garden soil and potting mix for acid-loving plants. Using sphagnum peat moss is also an excellent option to acidify and lighten the soil.
- Choose the location: Opt for a site in full sun (minimum 6-8 hours) and sheltered from prevailing winds.
- Dig the planting hole: Dig a shallow but wide hole, about 50 cm (20 inches) wide and 30 cm (12 inches) deep. Blueberry roots are superficial.
- Plant: Gently remove the plant from its pot and carefully loosen the root ball. Use the acidified soil mixture prepared in step 1 to fill the hole. Place the plant so that the top of the root ball is slightly above ground level.
- Finish planting: Fill the rest of the hole with your mixture, tamp down lightly, and water thoroughly. Plan for a spacing of about 1 to 1.5 m (3 to 5 feet) between highbush blueberry plants.
Growing in Pots (Ideal for Balconies)
Container growing is an excellent solution, especially if your soil is not acidic enough or if you are short on space.
- Recommended varieties for pot culture:
- 'Peach Sorbet®' Blueberry: This is the top choice for a pot. It has a dwarf habit, beautiful foliage, and its limited hardiness (Zone 5) makes it a perfect candidate for container growing.
- 'Northland' Blueberry: Its naturally compact bush and high hardiness (Zone 3) make it a reliable and productive choice.
- 'Polaris' Blueberry: A half-high variety, it is designed for small spaces and adapts very well to life in a pot.
- Container: Choose a large pot of at least 40-50 litres (10-15 gallons), like a fabric Smart Pot, with good drainage holes.
- Potting Mix: Directly use a potting mix for acid-loving plants or a ready-to-use mixture based on sphagnum peat moss and compost. There is no need to test the pH, as the mix is already suitable.
- Care: Potted plants require more frequent watering and increased winter protection. When autumn arrives, either move the pot to a cold, unheated place (garage, shed) or wrap it with an insulating blanket.
Essential Care for Your Blueberry Bushes
Once established, they require little care. For the first two years, it is crucial to remove the flowers as soon as they appear. This may seem counterintuitive, but this action allows the plant to focus its energy on developing a strong root system. You will thus get your first significant harvests from the third or fourth year.
- Watering: Maintain consistent soil moisture without ever letting it get waterlogged. A deep watering once a week is often sufficient, except during heatwaves.
- Mulching: Apply a 5 to 10 cm (2 to 4 inch) layer of mulch (pine needles, bark, wood chips) at the base of the plants. This helps retain moisture, control weeds, and maintain soil acidity.
- Fertilizing: Fertilize in the spring with a fertilizer for small fruits or a natural garden fertilizer like 4-5-7 Botanix Natur. Avoid fertilizing after mid-July so as not to stimulate new growth that would be sensitive to frost.
- Pruning: Pruning is essential for good production. Prune during the dormant season (late winter/early spring).
- Years 1 to 3: Only remove dead or damaged wood.
- From Year 4 onward: Each year, remove 1 to 2 of the oldest canes (the ones that are grey and woody) at the base. This encourages the growth of new, more productive stems. Also, thin out the centre of the bush to improve air circulation and light penetration.
Protecting Your Plants and Harvest
- Birds: Install protective netting as soon as the first fruits begin to turn blue. Remove it after the harvest.
- Pests and Diseases: Blueberry bushes are robust. Inspect them for caterpillars or scale insects. The most common disease is mummy berry, which mummifies the fruit. Remove and discard affected fruit to prevent its spread.
- Winter Protection: In colder regions, install a snow fence to protect the plants from wind and the weight of snow. For rodents (rabbits, deer), a plastic spiral guard around the main trunk may be necessary.
Harvesting and Storing Blueberries
A blueberry is ripe when it is uniformly blue and detaches easily from the stem. Taste one! If it's sweet, it's time.
- Storing: Choose firm, plump berries.
- Refrigeration: 5 to 10 days in an airtight container, unwashed. Wash them just before eating.
- Freezing: Rinse and dry the blueberries well. Spread them on a baking sheet and freeze. Once hard, transfer them to a freezer bag or airtight container. They won't stick together!
- Dehydrating: Follow your dehydrator's instructions to get delicious dried blueberries.
